Anyway. Despite the inauthenticity of the above pad thai recipe, it's a pretty fantastic dish that I am hereby recommending to you. It combines three excellent vegetarian protein sources that can be somewhat boring on their own -- eggs, peanuts, and mung bean sprouts -- into a coherent stir fry of noodles and vegetables that's flavorful and rich and extremely filling without being heavy or greasy. I've tried making more traditional renderings of pad thai with tamarind paste and whatnot, but I've yet to find one that comes out as good as this...in my opinion. Arguably that's because I'm an American and thus my diabetes-prone palate is calling out "I LIKE KETCHUP GIMME MORE KETCHUP". This may be true, but I think it's also because it's a great recipe that just works.Because I'm not a vegetarian, I usually substitute fish sauce for the soy sauce in the recipe (the original cookbook recommends this). You should do this, too, even if you've smelled fish sauce before and thought it was disgusting. You're not wrong -- it IS disgusting. But it's also amazing. Fish sauce is one of those alchemical ingredients that's stomach-turning in its concentrated form but that when used in just the right way and in the right proportions ends up cementing and centering flavor in an way that imparts the very essence of certain foods (much like nutmeg or asafoetida)*. And apparently, it is made by fermenting fish in brine until they literally dissolve. Which makes me wonder -- can this be done with other creatures besides fish? Could we make a fermented chicken or pork sauce that's made of dissolved animal flesh and that would keep at room temperature? I'm assuming that if we could, there would be an Asian culture that would have done so already.
*I was really wracking my brain for a humorous musical reference to throw into this parenthetical aside as well. Can you think of any that would fit the bill?
Ketchup is the secret ingredient to good vegan cheese.
ReplyDeleteMy problem with pad thai is a tangle of noodles when I try to stir it all up.
Asafoetida! Whoa! Had never heard of it and looked it up. Thanks for that.
ReplyDeleteOh, I also came here to say that I have a cookbook called "The I hate to Cook Almanack (A Book of Days) Recipes and Relief for the Reluctant Cook and the Harried Houseperson" [sic] from the 70s. I've yet to try anything in it out but I am often reluctant. I think I used to have a copy of one of those Moosewood cookbooks too. Cookbooks are so neat.
ReplyDeleteHow about something to do with aleatoricism?
ReplyDeletehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aleatory
Or, like, something.
a.b., I have had that problem as well with rice noodles. I've found it helps to (1) rinse them with tap water after draining til they're quite cool and (2) chop them up a bit with the spatula when you throw them in the skillet/wok. Of course, maybe you are doing these things and they still stick, I wouldn't doubt it.
ReplyDeleteI like cookbooks, but there are a world of bad ones out there. I hate cookbooks in which every recipe calls for two dozen ingredients. Like a good math textbook, a good cookbook should simultaneously show you the exact skill you need to know to accomplish a task while also forwarding your general comprehension of the topic as a whole.
I was not familiar with that word. Aleatory cooking?
Explain how this would work.
ReplyDeleteOh ok, I gotcha now! About the parenthetical aside! Yes, maybe, although I don't know what aleatory music sounds like. I guess that means I should watch X-Files: Fight of the Future.
ReplyDeleteI was thinking Nicki Minaj at first because I like that "Monster" song so much but I think "Moment 4 Life" is pretty boring. But then I also kind of like that other song she does, so I didn't feel ok comparing her to fish sauce. But I'm sure there's someone that fits the bill who I'm not thinking of.
Yay! A post about food! Also, I just saw your D&O 100th post survey comments, and was really warmed and heartened by them. Thanks, BH. But I would still love to hear more of your reflections on contemporary food culture. Can't wait...
ReplyDeleteSure thing. I do want to write more on that topic, because to be honest I'm not sure I have very well formed opinions...or at least not readily explicable ones.
ReplyDelete